Nature-inspired Gothic clothing

Thomas Cole, The Past, 1838 and the golden glow of Romanticism

You gotta love it!  The Wadsworth Atheneum has put together another of its seemingly modest, but creatively eye-opening exhibits.  This time, from Gothic to Goth: Romantic Era Fashion & Its Legacy.  Don’t go expecting much Alexander McQueen.  Goth is a footnote, and I was delighted this exhibit focused on American Gothic.

Even those two terms seem like an anathema.  American and Gothic?  Yes, with a slight tweaking of more American phrases we typically use–the Hudson River School, antebellum fashion styles–we can start connecting that Victorian-dark Gothic Revival furniture with our golden landscapes and elegant gentility.

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Look at this gorgeous detail from Lilly Martin Spencer’s Reading the Legend, 1852.  You know how much I love Spencer’s wit and social commentary.  This painting couldn’t be more conventional, with the Romantic tryst in nature and picturesque ruin.  But look at the details of that dress–the transparency of the lace over the bodice, the golden floral shawl, and the ruby-red satin of her gown.  Luscious.

Two revelations came from the exhibit for me.  That the Hudson River School painters like Thomas Cole and Frederic Church, who painted the connection between the Romantic notion of untamed wilderness and God, also influenced fashion.  Yes, according to the exhibit curators.

Even more than in the Spencer painting, consider this dress.

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2016-03-20 15.34.01It sparkles with metallic thread in the embroidery and the golden material accentuates the Greek Revival fronds, so fashionable in all the decorative arts.  Though a brighter palette, the same theme is used in this beaded bag that reads Hartford Conn 1833 and was inscribed with Almira H. White’s name.  No German import for her!

You can see the American forest flora and fauna in these objects.  Just what Cole, Church, and particularly Asher B. Durand painted.

 

 

This Durand nature study is not in the show, but makes the point.  Note the botanical specificity, the golden glow.

The russet tones of the dress below, and then pull in the neo-Gothic chair…

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…and you get my second revelation.  The  pointed dress pleats and shawl front are reversals of the classic Gothic aspiring point.  Wow!  I had never put that together before.

So I reached out to Erin Monroe, American Art Curator at the Wadsworth, and she replied via email, “the pointed pleats on the dress and the slimming down or elongated silhouette of the dresses—moving away from the GIANT leg o’ mutton sleeves in the earlier dresses—are the visual reaction to or emulation of the Gothic elements of the architectural.”

How cool is that?  Thanks, Erin!

You can really see it here:

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The gold

The points

The nature motif

 

 

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Now look at the nearby painting by Cole, Scene from ‘The Last of the Mohicans,’ Cora Kneeling at the Feet of Temenund, 1827.  It’s all there.  Plus the lead character in the book was a ‘Natural Man’, so a fitting subject for our landscape guru.

Cole’s painting predates the dress and shawl above by some 10 years, and you might connect the influence of his golden glow, pointed spires, the botanical specificity (of so much more important than the miniscule figures).  Thomas Cole changed landscape painting everywhere, and now I know him as a fashion inspiration!

Maybe the love of pointed mountain peaks with their evocation of mystery and spirituality, helped inspire the whole Gothic Revival thing.  (This is how an art-geek thinks.)

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More examples of the earth-tones, flora and fauna patterning, and severe points.  Look at those pleats to the right.  Makes me gasp for air.

Perhaps the quirkiest decorative art to be inspired by Cole and gang was not really an art, but more a decorated functional object.  A stove.  Yep.

Look at how this parlor stove from about 1844 has been cast with the same decorative motif.  Rounded foliage right out of a landscape painting.  The exact patterns used in dresses…and stoves!

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Don’t you love when you see something so familiar in a totally new way.  Brava, Curators!

 

 

 

Arsenic and Old Lace in Connecticut!

Did you know that the beloved play and movie “Arsenic and Old Lace” was based on fact?  Yep, it was.  A woman serial killer in Connecticut, Amy Archer-Gilligan was the inspiration.  She has even made Murderpedia!

Thanks to Diana Ross McCain of “Come Home to Connecticut” for the story last night at the Hamden Library.  Never forget that money will drive some people to do desperate things.  Do tell, you say.  Okay.

Having worked as elderly caretakers, Archer-Gilligan and her first husband opened a convalescent home in Windsor, CT.  When her husband died, she married again.  Her second husband died 3 months later from a “bilious attack.”  Ahem.

Compare this to the house in the film. Shivers!

They charged weekly rates of $5 to $25, with a special lifetime deal of $1000.  If you stayed in the home more than four years, this was a great financial deal.  Only…no one stayed longer than four years.

In 1914, Franklin R. Andrews was on this ‘life care’ plan.  He was so healthy that he puttered in the home’s garden in the morning, before dying of gastric ulcers that evening.  His sister in Hartford complained, and an investigation began.  The body was exhumed and a secret autopsy was conducted in the cemetery tool house.  Even after two years, the body was in good condition, a symptom of arsenic poisoning.  Apparently, Andrews was dosed 10 hours before his death and again shortly before.

Archer-Gilligan was accused, and she denied the charges, stating she used arsenic to control rats.  Her second husband’s and three more bodies were exhumed, revealing both arsenic and stricknine poisoning.

In 1917, the trial commenced.  One witness was Mr. Gowdy.  He and his wife wanted to move into the home, as long as they could get a particular room.  Archer-Gilligan told the Gowdy’s the room would be available on June 1, and they agreed to take it.  That room was occupied by, you got it, Franklin Andrews.  He died on May 29.

Mrs. Gowdy was one of 60 deaths in the house between 1907 and 1917.  Hmmm.  Not all her victims were men.  She convinced widows to leave their estates to her.  Talk about buyer-beware!

Archer-Gilligan was convicted, but was granted a new trial. She was found guilty of second degree murder with an insanity plea and went to jail anyway.  This was July 1919, five years after Andrews was killed.  After suffering from “prison psychosis,” she was institutionalized at Connecticut Valley Hospital until her death in 1962.  She has been remembered by employees there as very ‘sweet’.  Sweet, indeed.

By the way, she died after “Arsenic and Old Lace” came out, opening on Broadway in 1941 and as a film in 1944.  I wonder what she thought of Cary Grant?

On the radio

In case you missed the conversation on the radio today, you can listen to it here.  I was privileged to be interviewed by Daniel Fitzmaurice, Executive Director of Creative Arts Workshop, and to join in the conversation that included installation artist Laura Marsh and her brilliant perspective on the contemporary art scene.

Thank you to Daniel and Laura!

Preserving Memory

I love a good story and a great storyteller.  This week, I had two encounters worth noting.

Tammy Denease knew her great-grandmother who was enslaved and lived to be 125.  Wow!  Mississippi, her home state, is a place that only recently actually outlawed slavery, and Tammy knew the mindset of slaves first hand.

Now in Connecticut, she tells the stories of incredible women from history, preserving the memory of their humanity, as well as who they were and what they accomplished.  At the New Haven Museum, she performed the story of “Sara Margu: Child of the Amistad.”  And what a story it is!.

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Sara Margu was one of four children captured and put on the Amistad, which ironically means friendship in Spanish.  The ship was a slave vessel.  Sara’s name in her native Mendeland (now Sierre Leone) was Margu.

The Amistad story is probably more familiar now due to the Stephen Spielberg movie.  It tells of the remarkable case of a slave revolt in 1839, with the captured people taking over the ship.  Although they wanted to return to Africa, they couldn’t make that happen. The boat was captured in Long Island Sound by a US ship, and everyone on board was brought to shore in Connecticut.

The people declared themselves free, and the remaining crew and Spain labeled them property.  In an internationally famous case, the US Supreme Court ruled in favor of the Mende people, declaring them free, becoming a major marker for abolition.

What Denease does so well is skirt the famous portions of the story for the personal, the human.  She preserves the experience of Sara Margu by telling her very particular story–the horrors of the slave ship from a child’s perspective and her healing through education.

Sara Margu worked off debts her father accrued in Mende and was taken when she was already separated from her family.  She tells how the horrors didn’t really stop when the captives arrived in Connecticut.  Many were housed in New Haven, while figuring out next steps.  She describes that people paid 25 cents to look at the Africans, as locals had never seen or heard anyone like them before.

She also recounted how Josiah Gibb wanted to help and cleverly learned how to say the numbers 1-10 in Mende, then walked through black communities saying the numbers out loud until he found someone who understood what he was saying.  That man then became the translator for the interactions in New Haven.

Sara Marrgu was moved to Farmington where she lived with a family who had a deaf son and a kind woman named Sara (where she took that portion of her  name).  She communicated naturally with the son and began to learn English.

With the trial, she understood that the central issue was, “Am I a person or am I property.”  It was election year, and President Martin Van Buren said, property.  The Queen of Spain said, property.  But the US Supreme Court disagreed by a remarkable 6-1.

The Mende people could go home, but they had no money or sailing skills to get them there.  So they did the American thing and went on a speaking tour, telling of their “adventure” on the Amistad.  Sara Margu also singly demonstrated that Africans were intelligent by reading from the Book of Psalms.  Sigh.

But however demeaning, the tour was a success.  Sara Margu and the others raised enough to return home, and although they were not allowed to eat with white members on board, the travel was much more comfortable.  The missionaries who accompanied the Mende hoped they would help the whites start a school and convert the Mende.  One responded by ripping off his clothes upon return to show his tribal markings.  But Sara Margu helped as she could.

The missiona2016-03-10 18.14.42ries then paid for her to return to the US, to study at Oberlin, a college that accepted blacks.  Sara Margu was 14 years old.  It was 1844.  Although it wasn’t all peaches and cream, despite the liberal stance, she did learn and became the first black to graduate.

She returned to Africa and felt the outsiderness of not fitting in anywhere easily.  Still, she worked in the school, embracing Christianity along with her Muslim upbringing.  She married and had a child.  Not everyone who survived the Amistad to return had such a good life, and Denease relayed those stories, too.

For her, the world of the Amistad is more than a powerful legal case.  And one thing I really loved is that she doesn’t ever tell about the death of her historical figures.  Sara Margu can live on in our minds and hearts.

Carol Highsmith sees her work as preserving memory, too.  2016-03-09 18.23.41She has collaborated with the Library of Congress for 35 years, photographing America.  To the tune of 30,000 photos so far.  She is 70 and expects to continue for the next 15 years.

She just finished documenting Connecticut and told that story at the Connecticut Historical Society.  And she does consider her work documentary.  She is thinking about researchers in 500 or 1000 years wanting to understand the culture of the United States.

Diminutive in stature, but huge in confidence, bon amie, and story telling through photography, Highsmith is truly a national treasure.

She mixes and matches images because that’s how she sees America.  In her presentation, she might have an image of Lincoln’s coat he wore when he was shot next to Yellowstone and an image of the Mona Lisa on a barn.  She calls them all iconic.  And because nothing stays the same, she repeated, “that’s why we need to record ourselves.”

The entire archive of her work is downloadable and free via the Library of Congress.  You can have so much fun browsing it, looking for your state or favorite place.  Go for it.

Mona Lisa barn art, Wisconsin

Carol Highsmith, Mona Lisa barn art, Wisconsin

Cold Cruise

Under a winter-blue sky and a breezy 44 degrees, we boarded the Sea Mist for a seal watch cruise around the Thimble Islands.  The seals come from Nova Scotia and other points north to winter in Long Island Sound, feasting on any kind of fish, from herring to their favorite–black fish.

It was a beautiful day, and the last cruise an hour earlier reported a count of 35 seals.

From the cruise before ours

The conditions were perfect – cold, sunny, low tide.  Just when the seals like to sunbathe.

We cruised around for 75 minutes looking for those sunbathers.  We definitely saw heads bobbing along near Commander Rock, pictured above.  But that was about it.

These gray seals, averaging around 8 feet long and 700 pounds, can stay submerged for 27 minutes and dive to 1400 feet.  Long Island Sound today ranged from 4.5 feet deep to a few times that during the low tide.  Not too many places for them to hide.  Hmmm.

Sometimes, the luck’s not with you.  But who can complain?  The air was fresh, the cold bracing.  And there was all that water and sky.  A pretty good deal, seals or no seals.

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