Ghostly Sightings

Halloween apparitions will most likely be stirred by Hurricane Sandy this year.  She seems to be a very angry spirit.  So yesterday, it was time to go meet a few ghosts.

With its loveliness, one wouldn’t think that Washington Square would be a vortex of Halloween energy.  But it was built on the graves of 15,000 yellow fever victims, and some say you can see the saffron yellow, linen-wrapped bodies, if you know where to look.

The Hanging Tree, last used in 1819
Click on this image to see its creepiness

But you don’t have to look hard to see the last Hanging Tree in New York, where Lafayette in his triumphal return to the U.S. was proudly taken to witness such justice.

So Justin Ferate told us on our tour of Haunted Greenwich Village.

As is typical of any tour with Justin, we went off on interesting tangents.  Do you know why walk-ups rarely go higher than 6 stories?  Because water pressure won’t go push water higher than that.  Savvy builders constructed new apartment houses to 15 stories using water pump technology.  Did you know that the best kind of water tower to have on the roof of your building is made of wood?  Justin wants to lead a tour of New York’s water towers.  I’ll be there!

And although not at all ghostly, those professional chess players in the park can get their supplies on nearby Thompson Street.

3rd and Thompson

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So many places in the Washington Square vicinity are haunted, you’ll have to check out the slide show below.  Here are some tidy tidbits.  You know the phrase “getting sent up the river”?  That comes from moving the prison in Greenwich Village up the Hudson River to Sing-Sing (a popular tourist stop on a daytrip out of Manhattan in the early 1800s, per my New York Historical Society connections).

We saw NYU’s Brown Building, where the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire horrified all.  The 146 unfortunate women, locked in the workroom, who died on March 25, 1911, had work because of R.H. Macy who invented the pricetag.  A set price on a shirtwaist and black skirt allowed the Working Girl to afford the ‘uniform’ of her day.

In the myriad ways to detect a house of the wealthy is the type of column.  In this case a full, that is a complete, rounded column, was more expensive than a partial column or pilaster.  Makes sense.

Gertrude Drick supposedly haunts the small doorway she introduced to artist John Sloan and other ‘hoodies, when they climbed the 110 stairs inside the arch to go to the top and party.

Aaron Burr bought the carriage house at 17 Barrow Street, stabling his and George Washington’s horses there.  Now the famous restaurant One If By Land, Two If By Sea, Burr and his daughter Theodosia haunt the place.  She likes earrings, so be careful what you wear when you go there.

Anyone want to join me?

 

Washington Square is way too haunted to relay all the tales here, but check out this slide show:

washington-arch

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Then I rode the C train up to 163rd Street to visit the Morris-Jumel Mansion.  Eliza Jumel’s spirit, which regularly haunts the place along with other ghosts, was apparently so restless that she morphed into 7 manifestations, each haunting a separate room or place on the grounds.

[gview file=”https://www.renatobey.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Eliza-Jumel.pdf”]

To read more about Eliza, you can zoom to read the text on page 2 or click open the pdf.

Eliza was abandoned as a young girl by her parents and so turned to prostitution, before becoming an actress.  She married for money, perhaps killed that husband, and then her second husband Aaron Burr conveniently died on the day their divorce was finalized.

Eliza as an abandoned girl, in the kitchen

Eliza as a widow, with the pitchfork that killed Stephen Jumel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In her mad, doddering elderhood, she was a scary gal, and I have to admit that I jumped a bit when I exited the house to be screamed at by Eliza’s ghost from the balcony, “Get Out of My House!”  Okay, okay already.  So that’s when I went on the grounds to encounter the Eliza who may have neglected to care for her husband Stephen, after he was pierced by a pitchfork.  Hmmm.

Edith Wharton wrote in the introduction to her autobiography A Backward Glance, “To all the friends who every year on All Souls’ Night come and sit with me by the fire” (thank you, Justin for sharing this quote).  Since Sandy seems to be keeping us at home for the next few days, join me by my proverbial fireplace…well, everyone maybe except Eliza!

A fine day on Park Avenue

 

It was a fine day on Park Ave.  There was the tiniest evidence of leaves starting to change.  Notice the one fallen leaf on the left in this moment of color.

 

 

And what a pleasure to immerse in the International Fine Art & Antique Dealers Show at the Park Ave Amory, a place of great beauty itself.

The show offered a great range, from antiquities to contemporary art.  I enjoyed talking with the dealers about the challenges of working with antiquities in an era of cultural repatriation and major museum thefts.  Of course, to be able to see and touch such lovelies, with no vitrine in the way, is one reason to go to a show like this.

While the slide show below has many more images, here are a few of my favorites (you can click on any of the images to enlarge them, then use your back button to return to this post).

 

She called my name from a long distance, and we had a good talk, squatting together in the booth.  We reminisced about being on the western shores of Mexico, and she told me a thing or two.  I’m sure you can imagine.

 

 

 

This is a woman who knows her own mind.  You’ve just got to admire her!

 

Her Peruvian girlfriends came to join us.  They were utterly charming, even if they didn’t reveal the mystery of their upraised hands.  A delightful time was had by all!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I guess I was in a sculpture kind of mood.  Look at this Europa and the Bull.  Marvelous!

 

 

 

 

 

 

And I must be learning something in my Renaissance and Baroque Women Artists class, because right away, I just knew this Virtue and this Fame were by a woman we want to know–Elisabetta Sirani.

 

Not the best photos due to glare, but you can still make out the elegance of the portrayals of the allegorical figures (figures that stand in for ideas) of Virtue to the left and Fame blowing her trumpet below.

 

 

Thank you, Elisabetta Sirani!

 

 

 

 

 

 

And some things just make me smile…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

…or sigh with pleasure…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s more beauties from the day.  Enjoy!

 

 

The rain doesn’t stop anyone

Despite the rain, about 30 people showed up for the Grand Concourse tour in the Bronx, part of Open House New York.  Sam Goodman, an Urban Planner for the Bronx Borough, led the tour.  About midway, as we stood before a much-storied, internationally traveling Beaux Arts Sculpture in Joyce Kilmer Park (part of the slide show below), he challenged us to examine our prejudices: “who says a working class neighborhood can’t be beautiful?”

He got us into the lobby of several doorman buildings and the courtyards of others on a stretch of Grand Concourse not too far from Yankee Stadium.  Classic Art Deco and Beaux Arts detailing.  Murals in two on the buildings.  Elevators, oh my.  Check them out.

The people living in the buildings seemed more interested in getting on with their day than admiring the beauty of their surroundings.  I get it.  We live such busy, harried lives.  But to take a moment and see, really see.  That’s sweet.  Sam talked about what makes a building inviting.  It’s why I chose my building, which has a really pretty lobby, small floors, and clean, non-smelly halls.  What about you?

Riding the D train up to my volunteer assignment at the NY Botanical Gardens, I wondered how many people would venture all the way up there on a rainy day.  I met Bob and Jenny on the train, members of the Gardens, not aware that OHNY was there today, too.  We walked the 8 blocks over to the Gardens, and through their generosity, I joined them as “members” who could go into the Monet Giverny installations.

For those of you who saw the Giverny exhibit this spring, as I did with Helen and Al, or in the summer, I’m not sure the autumn plantings are different enough to warrant the long trip, unless you have a car.  Of course, if you haven’t seen it, it is lushly gorgeous.

In this slide show, you’ll also see the Fountain of Life and the neo-Renaissance building that houses the library and the Monet paintings that are on exhibit.  I also was blown away with the sculpture installations on the grounds, definitely new since my spring visit.

Even on a rainy day, this is a place of great solace and beauty.  The quiet, too.  And there was added fall beauty, although no leaf color yet, all over the grounds.

 

Going home on the 4 included a surprise treat–art in the subway.  One of thousands of OHNY tours I missed this year was the subway art tour.  There’s always next year…

Abundance of riches

There are 4 conferences in New York this weekend I wanted to go to, but I am only managing two.  Such is the life in New York.  While I’ll be missing the landscape conference and the Historic House Tours, today, I managed to make it to both JASNA in Brooklyn and Open House New York (OHNY) in Manhattan.

The day started with Cornel West, who is a Jane Austen fanatic, along with the 750 conference goers.  His style of delivery and even his point of view made for a fascinating point-counterpoint with Anna Quindlen.  While she focused on Austen as a miniaturist, who with that in-depth study models for writers a kind of greatness in the detail, he placed Austen as “the daughter of Shakespeare” in a Humanist tradition going back to the Greeks.  What does it mean to be human?  What is it affected by acknowledging our inevitable death?  We accomplish wisdom only through self-knowledge.  West argues that Jane Austen writes compellingly about each.

While Quindlen spoke from the heart, with tears in her voice, West leaned over his podium, spoke without notes, reference philosophy and literature through the ages, and impassioned his audience with preacher-like reverence.  He compared Austen with Checkov who said “I am a sad soul with a cheerful disposition,” then compared both authors in their quest to reveal, understand, and grow from suffering.  In a similar spirit to Quindlen, West said, “Jane Austen’s accomplishments go beyond our ability to keep up with them.”

Cornel West dancing all around the podium

Having first met West’s work while in graduate school, in writing filled with anger at patriarchal power structures and the oppression of African Americans, I was a bit amazed to see him leap to the stage, personally acknowledge many coordinators and scholars in the audience, and hug everyone within a few feet.  Perhaps, like all of us, age has brought a softening, a gentleness, a Jane Austen-ness that inevitably comes from the suffering of daily life.

After a rousing session on Georgian jewelry, I made my way back to Manhattan to the West Village.  With an hour to spare, I visited a Tibetan shop and stopped in to look at some fun antique clocks next door.

American clock, c1910s

Then I followed this guy for awhile, with his orange wheel.  I have no idea what he was doing or where he was ultimately going.

I sat in a pretty park with a nice fountain, until it was time to make my way to the OHNY tour.

Manhole Covers.  Yes, really.  Quite wonderful.

The tour was led to the artist Michele Brody who has a passion for manhole covers, designed one that was temporarily situated on Wall Street, and recently has sold manhole cover inspired lighting.  You’ll see her picture in this slide show, along with some of the highlights.  I love how important the feet and shoes became in this venture of looking down at the minutiae of life.  I bet Jane Austen would have loved this tour.

JASNA AGM

Today, 10/5/12, was the first full day at the JASNA AGM in Brooklyn.  That’s Jane Austen Society of North America Annual General Meeting.

In this video, you’ll see Jane Austen encounter New York and the Brooklyn borough president Marty Markowitz.  He kicked things off today and was so rousing and funny that he made me want to move to Brooklyn immediately.  He worked the title of all six Jane Austen novels into his remarks, too.  As he walked up the aisle to leave, I shook his hand, and he patted me on the back.  It almost seemed like it was election season.

Marty Markowitz in his office at Borough Hall, Brooklyn

Anna Quindlen was the plenary speaker, and she spoke movingly about Jane Austen as an inspiration for today’s writers, of course, weaving in her own story.  I was so impressed by Quindlen’s warmth, accessibility, intelligence, and passion.

I also got to try my hand at quilling – rolled paper put together to form images and scenes favored by those at leisure in the Regency era – and making a reticule, a handy little Regency style bag.  No surprise I’m not very good at either, but great fun to try them out.

My first attempt at quilling
The little flower has been placed in a tea caddy

My favorite session of the day was with Russell Clark who spoke about why First Impressions bombed on Broadway in 1959.  As a theater hog, I eat up everything about the Golden Age of Musicals and learning that this rendition of Pride and Prejudice just lacked that certain something of the My Fair Lady flair brought together two of my favorite pastimes — Jane Austen trivia and Broadway musicals.  If he sends it, I’ll post Clark’s PowerPoint from the session, which was inspired.

And who knew that sex was coded into Jane Austen’s novels?  Well, Miriam Rheingold Fuller did apparently, as she explained in her talk “Slits, Spikes, Steeds, and Scandals!  Coded Sexual Indiscretion in Jane Austen’s Fiction.”  Yes, it was as juicy as it sounds.  Maybe even moreso…much too racy for this PG-13 blog.