Inside (and outside) the studio

Over the past few weeks, I’ve visited several artist studios, artists from the past.  You can be the judge.  Does being in their studio make them seem alive, as if they just left the room?

I’d say no for the Norman Rockwell Studio, where throngs of tourists encounter a guide, who has a spiel she repeats on a loop, poor thing.  It’s all so neatly packaged.  If the studio is intended to reveal the man, we learn next to nothing about Rockwell here.  You might get a sense of that from this perfect little video, with its perky musical accompaniment.

photo 1I rather preferred Daniel Chester French’s studio. Notice the broken windows in the skylight?  Now here’s a guy who was actually working.

Yes, there’s the guide, pointing out facts about how the Lincoln maquette is scaled proportionately to the Lincoln Memorial in DC.  But he also explained a French quirk–how he used his private railroad to take pieces out into the sunshine, to see how they would look in natural light.  He could walk all around, study the shadows, and such.

photo 2So here’s the sculpture on the flatbed railroad “car.”  See if you can make out the tracks in my less than glorious picture.  The tracks run through these huge doors to the outside…

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…where they dead end.  They simply serve the purpose.

 

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And he had his tools, like sample hands, at the ready.

I like this place.

 

 

Nothing quite compares to the ramshackle studio of William Kent.  Kent died in 2012, but he2014-08-05 13.32.57 lived and worked here until the end.  A real character.  No heat in that studio that had been a barn, a barn used either as a slaughterhouse or for chicken processing.  Ew.

Still, traveling up hill and down dale to get to this extraordinarily picturesque ruin would have inspired any artist.2014-08-05 13.20.06

 

 

 

 

Kent didn’t start out at Yale making art.  He studied music with Hindemith.  Interesting.  His art work has pop overtones.  The sculptures, his most interesting works, are made from wood from a nearby mill and definitely owe 2014-08-05 13.19.24something to Claes Oldenburg, another Yalie.  His everyday household objects–the scissors, the hammer, the spade–are made of layers of various types of wood, often then add a surprise.  The saw that cuts through a lightbulb or a pepper.  A safety pin piercing a wooden football.

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Here are the tools of his trade found in his dark, crammed studio.

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And a different kind of tool, the inspiration for the cartoon sculpture series.

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When the New Haven schools abandoned chalkboards for marker-erase boards, he took on the chalkboards to carve as the “plate” for crudely-executed prints, sometimes transferring to fabric, as well as paper.  Strongly political and conceptual in a Warhol mode, these works represent the other body of work he’s known for.  He used this print as a kind of calling card, as a gift when visiting a friend’s house.

I’m leaving out the overtly sexual works Kent made, which caused a furor in buttoned-up New Haven in the 1960s.  So much so that Kent lost the directorship of the child-friendly Eli Whitney Museum.  A character, to be sure.

The William Kent Foundation is selling the works in the house and studio and will exist only until the last work is sold.  The Foundation gives whatever money it makes to “indigent artists.”  With prices that range from $6000 to $48,000 for the sculptures, the works aren’t selling too quickly.  So there’s time to see this unedited studio, so revealing of the artist’s mind.

Back to the more carefully-presented, genteel, 1760s farmhouse and studios of 120 years of working artists at Weir Farm.  Now we’re talking National Park Service.

2014-08-07 13.49.36This studio is literally as pretty as a picture.  It belonged to Julian Alden Weir, an Academic painter from the “tradition,” who, from 1882 on, would escape from New York each summer, and sometimes winter, to live on this farm run by a hired manager.  His art and artist friends–Duncan Phillips, John Singer Sargent, Albert Pinkham Ryder, John Twachtman, Childe Hassam–followed.

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It’s idyllic Connecticut.  It just doesn’t get any prettier than this place.  Rolling hills, stone-walled prettyfences, gardens designed by Weir’s daughter Cora, all framed by the softest blue sky and gentlest green grass.  Weir advised “go in nature and paint with a stick,” to capture the immediacy of this beauty.

pretty as

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Yes, there’s an oddity here and there, like this dining room chandelier from the house.  But mostly, what is here is Park-Service-prescribed heavenly beauty, dated 1915.  Can you imagine working in a studio this pristine, this picturesque?

You can make out the face of Weir's daughter Cora on his paint box

You can make out the face of Weir’s daughter Cora on his paint box

 

 

 

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I walked the grounds with a printed guide to see just where Weir stood to make his paintings.  Thomas Cole’s wonderful house Cedar Grove up the Hudson River offers the same tool.  Magical!

Here, the artist story continues.  Mahonri Young, Brigham Young’s non-religious son (yes, really), comes to Connecticut to paint and marries Weir’s daughter Dorothy, another artist.  They live in the house, and

Clay maquette of a farmer, the working man subject Young preferred

Clay maquette of a farmer, the working man subject Young preferred

Mahonri builds a separate studio for his sculpture and painting.  It’s in much rougher condition and so not as charming as its Weir neighbor.

Still, who wouldn’t love this remembrance of an adult visitor?  As a child, he recalls getting in and playing in this tub of clay.  Delicious!

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Today, artists continue to paint en plein air here.  As I was leaving, the artists, too, were wrapping up their day.  A day that allowed peaceful seclusion, but also connection to like-minded spirits.  An artist’s dream.

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Flea Market Memories

I don’t know how many years it’s been since I’ve been to a flea market.  So I surprised myself by wanting to check out the neighboring town’s event at the North Haven Fairgrounds.

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There were the typical booths of junk nobody wants and the typical booths of quirky stuff that nobody wants and the typical booths of collectible stuff that very few people want.  My mother was one of those people, trolling for her “bag lady art,” sculptural assemblages of found objects.

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There were the bored booth attendants and overly friendly booth attendants and desperate booth attendants and the rare busy booth attendants.

 

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I slowed briefly to look at this cookie jar.  Then I decided it fell on the wrong side of the cute-kitsch to awfully cute continuum.

I paused at the honey booth, with North Haven honey bees right there and working.  I sampled the organic body butters that smelled less like cucumber and mint than lanolin.  This flea market was just a little bit sad.

 

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Until I hit the Jackpot!  There were Kristine and Gail at the “Live and Let’s Dye” booth, with big smiles and hot purple rubber gloves.  Here were spirits after my own.  So I did it.  I stopped and made a tie dyed tank top, just like my mother and I did when I was a child, in the backyard with big vats of single dye colors.

Kristine informed me that dyes have changed, and although we were carefully gloved, these dyes, well, I don’t know, are somehow new and improved.

First, I decided on a design–spiral in the corner (versus in the center).  Gail dunked my2014-07-26 10.50.15 t-shirt into a vat of water with soda ash, which makes the color adhere.  Then she began twirling the shirt with the spiral in the left corner, as I specified.

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Doesn’t this look like the perfect cinnamon bun?2014-07-26 10.50.29

 

 

Gail then used rubber bands to secure the “bun.” Wherever there’s a band will be white on the shirt.

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I picked my dye colors, using the their wonderful handmade dye chart, and I was off and designing.

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Flip it over and repeat.

 

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Then the rubber-banded, newly-dyed shirt went into a ziploc bag.  Now I had to wait six hours for magic to happen.

 

 

 

 

 

Two hand washes (one with rubber bands, the other without) and one machine wash later, here’s my North Haven Fairgrounds Flea Market Memorial Tank Top.

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This is just how memories are made.

Wedded to Art

Carolyn Choate was married to attorney and ambassador Joe Choate, but she wore a wedding band engraved “Wedded to Art.”  Right on, sister!

But her art forays seemed to be subsumed, like so many other women artists, by the rigors of her daily life.  Now, let us not be confused.  Although she and her husband started out fairly modestly, with his lion-like courtroom successes, they soon amassed enough money to buy this cottage in the Berkshires.  Naumkeag is the Native American word for the town where Salem, MA is now, the home territory for Choates, before making it large in Manhattan.

See the turret?  That makes for some weird and funny spaces inside this mish-mosh-styledimages house (Norman and Colonial Revival and New England Shingle), albeit one designed by McKim, Mead, and White in 1886.  I particularly like the round closet fitted inside the turret.

You can probably just make out the round corner, by its lonesome, in the corner of this parlor.  Weird and funny.  No sense of Carolyn in this masculine world, except for a charcoal drawing hung near her studio and a botanical watercolor upstairs.  Both quite facile and lovely.

While summering at Naumkeag, Carolyn hired a tutor for her children for eight hours of art instruction daily.  Really.  She didn’t want them to get lazy.  Admittedly, a music lesson and some swimming might have gotten thrown in there, too.

Meanwhile, was Carolyn making art, too?  Somehow, the house guide, who slipped me beyond roped-off areas and up back stairs to the servant’s quarters and into Carolyn’s studio, doubted it.

After all, Carolyn used their fortune for other kinds of good.  She started Barnard, since girls were excluded from college education, and then Teacher’s College.  She was one of the founders of the Met Museum in the 1870s, giving a priceless Impressionist collection to the new institution.  She amassed books to form New York Public Library.  She was pretty busy making a great city out of ramshackle, post-Civil War New York.

Screen Shot 2014-07-19 at 8.17.26 PMAnd Carolyn didn’t stop there.  Maybe she wasn’t making art, but she was instrumental in its promotion.  She worked with her friend John Singer Sargent to put on art fairs.  Sargent made charcoal drawings of Joe Choate and their daughter Mabel in 1911.

As remarkable as she was, try looking Carolyn up, and you won’t find much, except a mention on Joe’s Wikipedia page.  The fate of so many outstanding women.  Of course, not Emily Dickinson, who in her quiet way was also wedded to her art.

Emily at about 16, daguerreotype

Emily at about 16, daguerreotype

But did you realize she only published a few poems during her lifetime, mostly in the local paper and most of those as Anonymous?  Only after her death were her poems assembled and published, and not until those first editors took the capital letters out of the middle of her phrases and corrected her spelling.  They picked words they liked when Dickinson had still been unsure which to use.  I think today, we would consider such editing disrespectful.

Entrance to the front of the Emily Dickinson MuseumOne of the juicy stories told on the tour at her house, where she lived most of her life and wrote virtually all of her poems, concerns that first set of publications.  Her brother Ned lived in the house right next door, a wedding present from their father intended to keep his son close.  Edward and Susan seemed happy enough, although he apparently loved her, while she “loved him well enough to marry him.”  Get the picture?

Susan was one of Emily’s friends from the Amherst Academy, a prep school for Amherst College, both of which were started by Dickinson’s grandfather.  Like the Choates, the Dickinsons put their money into broader education, including for girls.  And it was that money that afforded Dickinson the ability to live the life she did–never marrying, becoming increasingly reclusive, and living in comfort.

Dickinson sent Susan many of her poems, which Susan kept, and only later did the poet start to make copies of poems that might have been written on the back of a chocolate wrapper or any scrap of paper, compiling them into her own little fascicles, or booklets.  Living basically as a recluse in the Amherst house, not even venturing next door to visit family, she penned some 2000 poems.

Dickinson children Emily on left, Ned, Lavinia on right Otis Bullard, c1840

Dickinson children
Emily on left, Ned, Lavinia on right
Otis Bullard, c1840

After Dickinson’s death, Susan attempted to get the poems published.  After two years, when she didn’t have success, Emily’s sister Lavinia (also unmarried, who stayed in the same family house with Emily and at one point, 11 cats–no I’m not kidding). gave the poems to Mabel Loomis Todd.  Todd was well connected and had started the Amherst Historical Society and Amherst Women’s Club.  She, along with Dickinson’s long-time friend, and sometime critic, Thomas Higginson were the editors who amended the poems and got them published, four years after the Dickinson’s death in 1886.  The poetry was an instant success, and Dickinson became posthumously famous.

Behind this official story, is a bit of drama.  That first publication did not include the poems Emily wrote to Susan, who kept them locked away until her own death.  Then Susan’s daughter Martha, a writer of potboilers, took over care and publishing of Emily’s works.  So why did Susan hoard away these poems, when the rest were published?

Turns out, Mabel Loomis Todd was having a long-term affair with Susan’s husband, Emily’s and Lavinia’s brother, Edward.  Oh my.  So the family split.  Lavinia had taken the poems to Todd and sided with her brother, wishing for his happiness.  Susan’s and Ned’s children sided with their mother.  Sigh.  Family dynamics are never dull, are they?

As with so much, Emily remains a mystery on the subject.

Amherst mural with Emily Dickinson framed by trees

Amherst mural with Emily Dickinson framed by trees

Regardless, like Carolyn Choate with her paintings, Emily Dickinson created for her own pleasure.  They were contemporaries, one living in more freewheeling New York, the other in more staid New England.  But both had a loud voice, and both would make long-lasting creations–Choate’s very public works, Emily’s very private ruminations brought out into the sunlight.

We are the beneficiaries.

 

In Emily’s words,

There is no Frigate like a Book
To take us Lands away

 

I would only add the ‘frigate of art’ and nod at both these women, so wedded to their art which bring us so much pleasure today.

Courtney at Emily Dickinson's grave Buried with her family, as she lived her life Remembered by many, including us, leaving stones, pennies, shells, pencils, notes, and even a book

Courtney at Emily Dickinson’s grave
Buried with her family, as she lived her life
Remembered by many, including us, leaving stones, pennies, shells, pencils, notes, and even a book

Mum Bet

Next time you’re wandering in the Berkshires, I recommend a stop at the Ashley House in Sheffield, MA.  It’s an interesting house for its period–a mansion for 1735–and the blending of British and Dutch cultures in the Western Massachusetts/Connecticut region.  Colonel Ashley, a Brit, made his fortune producing cannon balls.  Well somebody had to.  Hannah, his Dutch wife, took  a much harsher approach with their slaves, including the seven year old her parents gave her.  Now the story gets really interesting.

Mum Bet grew up in Ashley House, which at the time, wasn’t the worst way of life for a slave.  She had her own room off the kitchen.  Nearness was a necessity, as Mum Bet tended the  2014-07-05 13.28.52only fire in the two-story house.  But this also meant she had a nice warm room.  No sleeping in the stable for her.  She also cared for whatever infant needed her, in the adjacent alcove.

Here’s what her bed on the floor might have been like, in the plain room, but nice and toasty.

Mum Bet, who later took the name Elizabeth Freeman, was inspired to claim her freedom after a pivotal event with Hannah, and then with the Colonel.  Hannah severely burned Mum Bet, when she was trying to protect her daughter from punishment.

Then in 1773, a meeting was held in the upstairs good room.  No women, except Mum Bet, were allowed, and she listened and absorbed.  There the men drafted up the Sheffield Declaration, with Ashley, Ethan Allen, and Tapping Reed, who started the first law school in the colonies, in nearby Litchfield, CT, among others.

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The words they wrote:  “Resolved, That mankind in a state of nature are equal, free and independent to each other, and have a right to the undisturbed enjoyment of their lives, their liberty and property.”  Sound familiar?

It was adopted in Sheffield, then Boston, before moving to Philadelphia.  And so we get Thomas Jefferson’s version: “We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness,” an apparent direct descendant of the Sheffield Resolves.

Mum Bet heard all this and demanded her freedom.  The Colonel, more liberal than his wife, stated that as a woman she had no rights, so along with a male slave, she sued for her freedom.  A jury of all white, male farmers in Great Barrington granted it to her in 1780.  Hannah said no, but when another slave was emancipated, Mum Bet couldn’t be denied.

Elizabeth Freeman resolved the issue of where to go as a newly freed person by becoming a nanny for the Sedgewick family in Stockbridge, supplementing her income by working as a midwife.

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Mum Bet, age 69 or 70.  Miniature portrait, watercolor on ivory by Susan Anne Livingston Ridley Sedgwick, 1811.

One other story shows Mum Bet’s feistiness.  Shay’s Rebellion was a rowdy tax revolt by area farmers in the 1780s.  Mum Bet, hearing the men were coming to the Sedgwick house, hid the silver, replacing it with pewter.  Then she served the men wine that had turned to vinegar.  So disgusted were they by the wealthy ways of the Sedgwick’s, that they left.  Mum Bet saved the day.  Or so the story goes.

And the story was told by the Sedgwick daughter Catherine, who was raised by Mum Bet and later became a novelist of “domestic fiction.”  The account of Mum Bet appeared in Sedgwick’s essay “Slavery in New England” in Bentley’s Miscellany from 1853.  Pretty cool, eh?

Mum Bet lived to be 87 years old and is a new inspiration for me as I learn about historic, bold women who go after their passion, and their rights.  So glad to have met her!

 

Fun tidbit:

2014-07-05 13.28.21This tiny iron was used to teach children to iron (hmmm) and for ironing the lace in men’s cravats, cuffs, etc.  I think I believe the latter before the former.

Good eyes will pick out the press mold for making cookies on the left.  The mold depicts a boy on a chamber pot.  Not terribly appealing as a cookie.  Colonial humor is apparently no less scatalogical than today’s.

 

Arts & Ideas

Every year, New Haven explodes with every form of art and generation of ideas for the two  week International Festival of Arts & Ideas.  I’ve not been able to jump in until now, but my menu selections range from contemporary dance to walking tours to unusual therapy to performance theater works to aesthetic acrobatics.

Arguendo,” performed by Elevator Repair Service, arguably has an audience-pleasing premise: the Supreme Court’s weighs in on whether nude dancers, as in adult entertainers, are protected by the First Amendment.  Lifted from transcripts of the actual proceedings and montaged in a quasi dance-performance piece, the structure seemed promising.  But other than a manic five minutes (in which the attorney defending the dancers’ First Amendment rights argues his points in the nude, while justices toss papers gleefully overhead, all talking at once), I found the production surprisingly dull.  There’s a reason I’m not an attorney.

 

Celebrating a gloriously pleasant Friday afternoon with members of the Hamden Walks meet-up group and about 100 other people, my first walking tour strolled along classy St. Ronan Street with an architectural historian from The New Haven Preservation Trust.  Built mostly during the Industrial Golden Age for New Haven between 1890 and 1920, there’s nothing cookie cutter about the grandeur.  Each house is quirkily different, gently breaking architectural style rules.  The street has a coherence though.  A repeated motif of diamond-shaped windows, regular set-backs from the street, and consistent distance between each neighbor creates a pleasing harmony and peaceable splendor.

2014-06-20 17.27.30St. Ronan refers to a well or spring in a Sir Walter Scott poem, and the Hillhouse family who developed the street from their farm and estate referenced that Romantic work with the picturesque homes.  You have your 1903 12,000 foot cottage, not so different from not so far away Newport.

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And next door is this storybook house a third the size.  The house originally belonged to the women’s rights activist Agusta Troup, who along with her wealthy husband, was also a union activist.  Ironic advocacy for the uber wealthy.

 

 

Keep walking to see this gambrel-intense home of a “traveling salesman.”  Yes, a Willy Loman 2014-06-20 17.35.04type lives here now.  Hmmm.

Notice the funny mix of window styles, the emphatic asymmetry.  Very playful and fun.

 

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And what street would be complete without its mid-century modern?  Here it belongs to the widow of a former Yale President.

 

 

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The houses and stories go on and on, but like me, you are probably ready to pause and refresh.  You might want to head to the festival of food trucks in Hamden town center.  I did!  Along with the throngs mobbing about 25 different food vendors in the park adjacent to the library.  Two cupcake trucks had long lines.  This menu board might explain why.

 

 

 

A whole new day, and more adventures with Arts & Ideas.  It’s summer, officially, and the longest day of the year!  So an eleven hour day of activity began with a hike up East Rock, 2014-06-21 10.54.31that odd geological monument that serves as a marker and icon of New Haven.  East Rock and West Rock are volcanic cliffs caused by plate shifts and molten lava that cooled on the exposed face.  Weird vertical thrusts from the gentle hills of the area.

That geological phenomena created a sheer face of trap, or basalt volcanic rock.  The trap is so hard it has served as a building block, as seen on this house on St. Ronan Street.  Unlike the also local brownstone, which is soft and subject to erosion, trap is used in asphalt for durable support for intense weights or for building for the ages.

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East Rock Park was designed from 1882 to 1895 by Donald Grant Mitchell, a 19th-century pop literature author who took up scientific farming and landscape design.  Interesting combination.  This natural arch occurs right by a manmade bridge designed by Mitchell.  He2014-06-21 11.19.36 also created the paths, walkways, trails, and planting schema.

No matter what you see here, the earliest paintings of East Rock showed bare rock with no trees, so that the sandstone strata at the base was visible.  We just don’t use as much wood as they did for 19th-century fireplaces, so now New England is forested in a way it wasn’t then.

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Diane Reeves, with the New Haven Symphony Orchestra, performed on the Green, closing off a great day.  But the real highlight for me was Bibliotherapy.

 

 

Bibliotherapy (for adults) is the brainchild of Susan Elderkin, who has moved from England to Hamden, my home town.  In her book The Novel Cure and the workshop today, she explained how we can be healed by a book, instead of with drugs.  Right on, sister!

To get started, she and her best friend and co-author Ella Berthoud parked a vintage ambulance in a field in Suffolk, England and put out a blackboard with appointment times.  Then they started dispensing prescriptions of books to read.

They had developed the practice on each other, addressing wallowing and romantic problems and I-hate-men moods, etc.  Susan explained that fiction doesn’t tell us what to do, but instead shows up by example (or dis-example), leaving us to decide how to proceed on our own.  She said, we could read self-help which tells us what to do–Feel the Fear and Do It Anyway— or read To Kill a Mockingbird.  You get the idea.

You know that feeling of being transported by a book.  Well, Susan studied how the brain works, so that being transported leads to transformation.  She articulated that when we read, we hear a narrative voice that displaces our own.  We “cease to be,” we “become the story.”  Reading is similar to actually doing something about the issue.  It is an “alternative form of living” that creates a vivid, shared intimacy with the book.  The book and its world keeps us from being alone with our issue, even if the plot line is wildly different from our own.

Susan says that recommending a book is “almost as good as writing it.”  She called for us to read so we can “give the gift of recommending,” which brought tears to my eyes.  When she called for a volunteer, guess who forced her way onstage?  Yep.

Through a prescribed set of questions, Susan got to know my reading habits and preferences.  Then I stated my issue simply.  Even though I’m “following my bliss,” “doing what I love,” I’m still waiting for the “money to follow.”  Susan tenderly probed, and then she filled out a literal prescription for me to read: Stoner by John Williams and to re-read Bel Canto by Ann Patchett and Ragtime by E.L. Doctorow.  I can hardly wait to see how my world might change through this focused reading.

But first, there’s more Arts & Ideas.  Tomorrow brings a rose garden, a Split Knuckle Theatre performance piece called “Endurance” that is a mash-up of office politics and the Shackleton voyage-disaster, and a tour of a 100 year old shul.  And then there’s more and more as the week progresses…not a dull art or idea in sight!

 

Riches

Sometimes the riches are obvious, sometimes not.

In the Puritan era of Connecticut history, riches were to be made by merchants, trading down the riverways to the open ocean and world beyond.  In the 1600s, picturesque Wethersfield grew up around the Connecticut River.  Unassuming-seeming merchants amassed great fortune through the sugar and slave trades.

Over time, the family houses grew larger, yet not necessarily more ostentatious.  A Yalie Silas Deane made his fortune and built his Georgian style home in the 1760s, before he became a political star before and during the Revolution.  Yes, there are formal parlors and Portland (CT) brownstone, but as you can see here, the house isn’t over the top.

Silas Deane House Southeast Parlor

They did have a lot of chairs, over 70, I think, when most homes might not have even one.  Chairs were definitely a luxury item.  Most of us might have made do with a bench, if we were fortunate.

The oldest house on this site dates back to 1752 and Joseph Webb.  But it got a Colonial Revival makeover in the early 20th century, complete with painted murals.  Definitely not Colonial!

NE Parlor Webb House

Any wealthy Colonist would have opted for wallpaper, as you can see in the restored, rather restarined Isaac Stevens parlor.

Isaac Stevens Parlor

Together, these three houses, as guided by the wonderful docent Jay, tell a story of Colonial life among the wealthy.  You can track how kitchen technologies changed, see the kinds of toys and picture books the children had, and witness how servants lived, including slaves who bought their freedom and built separate cabins on the same property as their employers.

Together, the occupants of the houses tell the story of how Connecticut blended the New York Dutch sensibility and Massachusetts Puritanism to form a hybrid culture of tolerance and staid conservatism, liberal values and the tendency toward inbred hysteria (as with the Connecticut history of witchcraft).

Trivia tidbit: Colonists liked to paint the back of their houses red.  Why red?  While not definitive, several possibilities abound.  Red warded off the devil.  Hmmm.  Red was available from red iron oxide and when mixed with skimmed milk and lime, made a hard, durable coat.  Okay.  Red absorbs the sunshine, so makes the house warmer with the winter sun.  Plausible, and may explain why by the 1700s, the red barn became ubiquitous.  Here’s the garden view of the handsome backs of the three Colonial homes in Wethersfield.

From the rear Wethersfield, CT, 6-4-14

From the rear
Wethersfield, CT, 6-4-14

While Frances Osborne Kellogg’s Homestead is much more modest than the three houses in Wethersfield, her life was plenty rich, as was her fortune.  Her Osborne father bought the 1840 Smith farm near Oxford, CT in 1911.  His fortune was made in the manufacture of wire corsets and hoop skirts.  Let me catch my breath.

When her father passed away, Frances, now married to an architect husband Kellogg, ran the factories and subsequently sat on the boards of a bank, hospital, and church, and continued her father’s interest in funding the local library.  She was a remarkable business woman, at a time when just being a woman in business was remarkable.

She married at 43, when her husband was 49.  It was a first marriage for both, and they had no children.  They devoted creative energy according to their passions. 

 

 

 

Her husband became interested in breeding Holstein cows, and Ivanhoe here was one of the top bull sires, making the Osborne Homestead famous.  He was a founding father of a different variety–not of a nation, but of a breed.

 

So with cows on the brain, I ventured up hill and down dale and through the woods to Rich’s Ice Cream.  The ice cream is made from the milk from the dairy right there.  I had Purple Cow, a creamy raspberry with chocolate chunks.  Don’t think about it too hard.  I will say, though, it topped off my day of riches.

Rich’s Ice Cream, Oxford, CT

 

So much in common

Going to Newport, RI means excess, so no wonder I found myself most attracted to The Elms.

The little cottage just like mine

The little cottage just like mine

After all, I have the most in common with Miss Julia Berwind.  She and I both worked on our houses.  Now, Julia did spend $1.4 million in 1901, which makes me feel better about what I’ve spent in 2014.  And she only stayed there a couple of months a year there.  My house is a bargain!

The Elms is considered “quiet and sophisticated” compared to the over-the-top opulence of The Breakers, etc.  Certainly my turquoise cabinets and multi- colored counters would also be considered quiet in comparison to the gold and pink marble and molded plaster of Marble House.

And as a woman after my own heart, Julia loved mah jongg!  She regularly played it in her “real summer home for a real family.”

Alas, that’s where the similarities end.  The Elms was a “machine for entertaining,”

Welcoming you at the entrance

Welcoming you at the entrance

representing efficient, Industrial Age America.  Of course, it was also Gilded Age America.  So Julia had 43 servants, who worked 14 hour days.

Julia never saw “the dirt and grime” of the construction process or the parlor maids who, along with the dirt, were kept invisible.  Only male servants were acceptable to see.

My favorite ballroom of the five mansions I visited was also at The Elms.  It opened on all sides, so that the length of the house was accessible and visible end to end.

For the Housewarming Ball, the quadrilles started after midnight, allowing DRparticipants to show off the complex moves which could last two hours per dance.  One of the 400 guests remarked he had so much fun that he never wanted to leave.

Such fun took great planning, and Julia conducted her business, like other Newport hostesses, right from her bedroom.  This social life took great planning.  Julia managed a $300,000 budget for the season and had to plan time well, too.  She’d get mail by the sackful (and we complain about email) and had an elegant pre-printed, pre-stamped rejection letter at the ready.

For all the remaining yeses, not only did any one day require 4 to 7 clothing changes, but strict schedules had to be adhered to–one must always arrive exactly on time for any function.  Too early and one embarrasses one’s hostess; too late, and one throws a kink in the works.

Elms-diningSo please.  When you are next invited to a Newport do, be on time, and don’t put your knife in your mouth!  Rest assured though, when you break a dish or spill your wine, Julia will merely smile.  And she will keep such meticulous records that you will not be seated next to the same dinner companion twice in a season.

Oh, and she will not call you on the telephone.  How rude!  The telephone is only for communicating with the servants.  She will write you a note.  Please respond in kind.

Chances are you won’t spend the night at The Elms.  Julia only has 7 bedrooms.  Don’t worry, she has 3 guest cottages nearby.

Giovanni Boldini portrait of Elizabeth Drexel Lehr, Paris, 1905

Giovanni Boldini portrait of Elizabeth Drexel Lehr, Paris, 1905

Julia and her peers didn’t have the vote and were expected to behave.

Take this story.  Elizabeth Drexel Lehr was told by Harry, her husband, on her wedding night, that not only did he not love her, but that he was repulsed by her.  He married her for her money, and she must avoid him everywhere but in public.  They remained married for 28 years.

So as much as I like and admire Julia (and her friend Elizabeth), I’ll keep my for real cottage versus lust after her Newport one.

Chock full of wonders

And you thought the Pez Factory Tour was fun.  Before opening, the Pez people came to the Barker Character, Comic and Cartoon Museum for advice.  No wonder.  It’s incomparable.  Take the wonderful Laurel and Hardy Museum in Harlem, GA and multiply it a thousand fold and you begin to get a sense of the vastness of the Barkers’ collection.  It’s all located in a tiny, 3 room museum in tiny Cheshire, CT.

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Herb Barker has a special affinity for Popeye, since they were born just 5 days apart in 1929.  Barker thinks of the cartoon character as his brother.  His collection of all things Popeye is eye popping. Here’s Popeye Heavy Hitty, from 1932 and worth over $14,000, which apparently still works.2014-05-08 15.55.52

Remember that spinach made Popeye strong enough to ding that bell?  Curator Judy First is concerned that one of the cans of spinach in the collection will explode some day!

Of course, I have a special fondness for Olive Oyl.  My brother nicknamed me after her, not such a compliment.  Tall and skinny.  Ah, those were the days.  Did you know that Popeye is actually Olive Oyl’s second boyfriend?  Her first was Ham Gravy.

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I also got to meet Jeep, Popeye’s very powerful pet.  He could bring characters back from the dead.  He was considered such good luck that the Army named a vehicle after him.

Barker and his wife began collecting, and still collect today, even as they live in Florida, nowhere near their Cheshire museum.  Showing me a recent collection bought online via Hake’s, Judy told me that Barker doesn’t play with his toys after he buys them.  She does though when she can, especially while dusting!

The Barkers collected toys–wind up, tin, stuffed, friction that spark, and yes, Pez dispensers.  They also collected cereal boxes, games, viewmasters, and lunchboxes.

In 1950, the first steel lunchbox featuring a character decal was introduced.  Hopalong Cassidy.  Wildly popular over the plain red or blue steel can, the new lunchbox concept was a smash.  By 1951, a new innovation of stamping a lithographed image over the whole surface the steel lunchbox was introduced.  Every year, we kids needed a new lunchbox with the latest hot character.  That US marketing ingenuity.  Well, until 1987, when steel boxes were outlawed.  A kid could crack another kid’s noggin with one, after all!

I loved seeing the Frito-Lay lunchbox strung up overhead, just like the one on top of my refrigerator.  Not only did I carry one as a child, but my current, vintage iteration came from my tenure at the company.

What did I love?  So much.  Here are a few extra special items.

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The 1931 Krazy Kat band.

 

 

 

 

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The Harold Lloyd squeeze toy from the 1950s; squeeze the tongs i2014-05-08 15.47.08n the back to open his mouth, move  his eyes up and down, and ding the bell.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other squeeze toys would send sparks from the figure’s eyes–kinda spooky.

 

 

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Superman wrestling with the Soviet Army Tank.  Really.

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Topo Gigio, a favorite from the Ed Sullivan Show.  Eight men operated the mouse, including one that focused on his fingers.  Beyond cute.

 

 

 

Walt Disney's Mickey Mouse Club Bead-O-Rama craft by Hasbro

 

 

Bead o Rama, a game where beads are placed in holes over an image.  Like a coloring book, but with beads.

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The original Gumby and Pokey clay figures and the tool wielded by Art Clokey to fashion them.  Clokey called them claymation.  I wonder what he would make of claymation today.  Every wonder about Gumby’s lopsided head?  It was a cartoon version of his father’s side-parted hair style.

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The 1873 cast iron Ramp Walker elephants, the oldest toys in the museum, produced by Ives Company of Bridgeport, CT.  Put them on a ramp, and they will walk down it.  I would really like to see that.

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Elsie, the robot cow, the spokescow for Borden Dairy.  If every robot were this adorable, we’d live in a very different world.  People lined up to meet Elsie, the real Elsie cow, at her debut at the 1939 Chicago World’s Fair.  Elsie was so popular that when Borden’s introduced a glue, they wanted to use her brand name.  But then they considered that people would think the glue was made of/from Elsie!  Yikes!  So they named it after Elmer, her husband.  Over time, Elmer and Elsie had kids, too.

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The Mickey Mouse Milk of Magnesia toothpaste.  Really!  It was recalled because the container was lined with lead.  Oh well.  This item is so rare that Disney contacted the museum attempting to buy it.  No luck.  Go to Cheshire to see it.

 

 

These buttons with The Yellow Kid came with cigarettes

These buttons with The Yellow Kid came with cigarettes

 

The Yellow Kid, one of the oldest comic strips in its current modern form.  Not only was heused in the comics, but also in advertising, with the words drawn on the character’s body.  Dating back to the 1890s, this strip was targeted to “people living in the ghetto.”  The character wears a yellow hand-me-down and is bald because he had lice!

 

Vintage Mod 60s Gidget Fortune Teller Card Game Sally Field

 

The Gidget Fortune Telling Game.  I certainly would like Gidget to tell my fortune!

 

 

 

 

I can tell good fortune will favor you with good humor if you visit this wonderful, jam-packed, story-filled museum.

The old long-billed Donald Duck

The old long-billed Donald Duck

 

Old Mickey and Minnie

Old Mickey and Minnie

 

Gotta love those cowgirls

Gotta love those cowgirls

 

 

 

Knots of Science and Art

2014-05-03 12.42.23Several of the New Haven museum exhibits have changed over for summer.  So on this luscious spring day, I visited three.

The day was so pretty that I took the opportunity to stroll into the woods behind the Eli Whitney Museum.  I had never walked through the adjacent covered bridge, proclaiming on a sign that Hartford is 32 miles away, and then Boston beyond.

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The A. Frederick Oberllin bridge was erected in 1980, but seems like it could be much older.  It spans the heavily rushing Mill River.  After crossing, I ventured on a little hike along the far side of the river bank.  I’m so happy to know about this picturesque place, so close to my house.

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from inside the bridge

 

 

 

 

Inside the museum is the 20th Leonardo Challenge.  The theme this year is Knots, with artists riffing on “Knot What You Imagine.”  The challenge is about applying Leonardo-type thinking to a problem.  Using science and art in imaginative ways.  This year’s inspiration are the knots from the “Mona Lisa” bodice.

mona-lisa

What do they mean or represent, asks the exhibit curators.  They are intricate and specific, demonstrating the artist’s command of detail in that field of sfumato (smoky atmosphere).  Is this merely about the artist’s bravura?  Do they represent a brand for ‘da vinci’?  Are they a mathematical code?  Do they represent his exchanges with Islam via Istanbul?  These are the knots art 2014-05-03 12.33.44historians tie themselves in.

So why not challenge artists to do the same?  My favorite of the works is “Gordian Knot” by Brad Conant.  He perfectly represents how my brain feels right now.

I also liked the Conceptual word play of “Not, Naught, Knot” by Group C (Brad Collins/B. Whiteman).

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Makes you think a little, eh?

 

 

 

 

Hannah Clark’s proud grandmother showed me the secret of “Not a Knot.”  From most angles you see the pieces suspended in the box, then in just one spot, the pieces cohere.

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a very clever mind at work

 

 

 

 

 

Knots of a very different sort took me to the New Haven Museum, and its moving exhibit “Nothing is Set in Stone: The Lincoln Oak and the New Haven Green.”  Again blending science and art, the exhibit commemorates a peculiar event resulting from the October 2012 Hurricane Sandy super  storm.

On the New Haven Green, the “Lincoln Oak,” planted in 1909 to commemorate the centennial of Lincoln’s birth, was blown over by the storm.  Intertwined in the roots of the tree were human skeletal remains.

The Green had served as an unregulated burial site for about 175 years.  Then in 1796, the new nation’s first chartered burial ground was incorporated and is still in use today.  You may remember an earlier post about the Grove Street Cemetery.  Meantime some 17,000 bodies were buried under the Green, expanding to both the Upper and Lower portions, and was still used up until 1812.  That New Haven history, ever revealing of something quirky and interesting.

So when the venerable Lincoln Oak toppled, it exposed some bones knotted up with it.  The New Haven Museum, itself founded during the Civil War in 1862, then came up with a remarkable idea.  They offered local artists branches and parts of the trunk of the toppled tree to work with any and all of the ideas in this complex knot of natural and civic history.  The results are powerful.

2014-05-03 13.04.15You can read the Gettysburg Address carved into pieces of the Oak’s trunk.  Click on the image to enlarge it.  Each chunk of the address is carved on a chunk of the tree, knotted together to form a spine in Erich Davis’ “Backbone.”

2014-05-03 13.09.35I choked up reading these familiar words carved into a tree that had come to represent New Haven and its history, a kind of backbone for this old place.  Plus Lincoln’s own strength of will served as backbone for a country divided.

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Look at this split–where the oak remained joined at the base, but split toward the top, as if recognizing a history that was unified and a divided present of the Civil War.  Here, Lincoln heads the attempts to reunify the discord.  This sculpture is Susan Clinard’s “A Nation Split.”  She used clay to add the head and hand of Lincoln to the Oak remains.

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So beautiful and elegiac–of Lincoln, of the loss of innocence of a nation, of a grand old tree that symbolized a city and the glory days of its past.

Michael Quirk, self-described as an artist, antique collector, and treasure hunter has created a work that blends history and the New Haven Museum, 114 Whitney Ave., presents "Nothing is Set in Stone: The Lincoln Oak and the New Haven Green," a tribute to the historic Lincoln Oak on the New Haven Green. It will run until Nov. 2.
In October 2012, Hurricane Sandy toppled the tree, which had been planted in 1909 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Lincoln's birth. Under the tree was found human skeletal remains.
Area artists were invited to use branches, limbs, or pieces of the trunk of the Lincoln Oak to interpret the history of the tree and the discovery of the remains. Hamden sculptor Susan Clinard, as well as Lani Asuncion, Erich Davis, Michael Quirk, Jeff Slomba, Rachael A. Vaters-Carr and Alison Walsh, participated in the exhibit.
Another component of the exhibit -- this one scientific -- consists of the results of the archaeological analysis of remains. The research was conducted by G. P Aronsen, F. Hole, Y. Tonoike, and K. A. Williamson (Yale University); N. I. Bellantoni (UConn); R. Beckett, G. Conlogue, R. Lombardo, and N. Pelletier (Quinnipiac University); J. Krigbaum (U. Florida); and L. Fehren-Schmitz (UCSC). Historical research was provided by J. Schiff (Yale University) J. Bischoff-Wurstle, and J. Campbell (New Haven Museum).
The contents of two time capsules found at the site of the fallen tree are also on display.
Details: <a href="http://www.newhavenmuseum.org"target=new window">www.newhavenmuseum.org</a>present.  He overtly references layers of human and natural history and creates a kind of time capsule with Lincoln memorabilia, coins, an arrowhead, news articles, and detritus from Hurricane Sandy.

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Quirk references a Cabinet of Curiosities, so popular in the 19th century for blending two passions–science and art.

 

 

At the Beineke Library, a new exhibit featuring small collections (when the large ones are splashier, more researched, etc.) has just the kind of objects that might make their way into a such a Cabinet.

Consider this “game” for glass blowing.  Really?  Yeah.  Before we coddled children, we allowed them to use blow torches and furnaces to blow glass.

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Well, so it seems, with the Gilbert Company’s highly gendered toy: “Gilbert toys bring science down to the level of boys.”

If any of you, boys or girls, actually “played” with this toy, I’d like to hear more about it!

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And imagine the knots lesbian woman had to tie themselves into to fit in a less inclusive world early in the 20th century.  But they could go to Chez Moune in Paris, the Cabaret Féminin, to be themselves, some dressing in tuxes to escort their lady friends.

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They could commemorate the experience with personalized matchbooks.  I have never seen anything quite like these and immediately wanted one for my Cabinet of Curiosities.

Untangling knots like these made for quite a day.

“The Candy that Dares to be Different”

Only a little less “Disney” than the Hersey factory visit in Hersey, PA, the self-guided Pez 2014-04-25 11.22.58factory tour in Orange, CT is a wildly popular tourist stop.  Remembering fun Pez dispensers and the somewhat blah candy of my youth, I made my way there, too.

It’s really a case study of American marketing brilliance.  The candy, named based on the German word for peppermint, was actually invented in Vienna in 1927 by Eduard Haas III as an adult breath mint and alternative to smoking.  Really.

The dispenser first showed up in 1949 at the Vienna Trade Fair and was a straightforward device, with no marketing ploys.  The candy didn’t make its way to the US until 1952, when it started operations in New York City.  Then the ideas started generating.

2014-04-25 11.08.06One of the first American dispensers was this space gun in 1956, shown with the hgihest selling dispenser of all–Santa.  I happen to really like the alien.  In fact, aliens seem to be one of the popular dispenser themes, along with Disney figures, animated movie characters, animals, sports heroes, Elvis, and the Presidents of the United States.

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Yes, POTUS.  A teacher I talked with said she plans to use them in her classroom.  Really.

 

 

 

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And also, check these out–I think that’s a policeman and a nurse.

 

 

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In 1991, the first Pez Collector Convention was held.  Given the crazy things people collect, Pez dispensers are actually pretty darn appealing.

Moreso than the candy itself, when you find out how little food value it contains.  A truckload of sugar gets dumped into a silo that holds 70,000 pounds, and this factory goes through 100,000 pounds 2014-04-25 11.12.09of sugar per week.  I’m weak in the knees from the sugar rush just thinking about it.  Add a little corn syrup and flavor and you’re ready to mold some candy.

One computerized machine, displacing what was done by hand historically, can generate 500,000 candy tablets per hour, to the tune of 12,000,000 for the factory per day.  It’s been well over 40 years since I had a Pez candy.  They are pretty disgusting.  But I guess the world doesn’t think so.  Or maybe, like me, they just like the dispensers.

2014-04-25 11.12.47I had more fun looking at how marketing genius created the pin-up Pez Girl and branded fans as Pez Heads.

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The vintage Pez vending machines are pretty awesome.  I’d love one for my retro kitchen.

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Imitations, Fakes, Forgeries, Play on

2014-04-19 10.51.55It’s spring.  So spring!  The flowers are fragrant, and the sun is laughing.

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That means it’s time for a day trip.  And today, I met Alice in Springfield, MA to take in the museums there.  Two special exhibits and Dr. Seuss beckoned.

What drew us to the D’Amour Museum is the exhibit closing next weekend, “Intent to Deceive: Fakes and Forgeries in the Art World.”  It shows the pieces of five known forgers working in the twentieth century through today.  Alice was already familiar with the Vermeer forger Han van Meegeren.  She told me that at one time there were thought to be 100 Vermeers.  Thanks van Meegeren!  Now we’re down to about 35.

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I particularly like this one, “Girl with a Blue Bow.”  It’s a great example of how van Meegeren grew the Vermeer oeuvre.  It’s pretty convincing.  Vermeer loved the yellow jacket with white lace, using a similar fur-lined jacket in several paintings.  And of course, there’s the glistening pearl earrings.  Alice commented that Vermeer didn’t do portraits like this.  Another forger in the show created his version of “Girl with a Pearl Earring,” which was never intended to be a portrait.

 

 

 

John Myatt substituted the face of an English pop star for Vermeer’s model.

 

Elmyr de Hory is plentifully featured in the exhibit, with works that he signed as the artist he forged (easy marks like Dufy and Matisse), and works that he signed as Elmyr, after he’d be caught.  He had become enough of a celebrity at that point, remarked the New York Times, that his fakes had value in and of themselves.

Here’s his darn good “Odalisque,” painted in 1974.

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I was reminded of a show I saw last weekend at the American Folk Art Museum, called “Folk Couture: Fashion and Folk Art.”  For such a small space, that museum is still putting on inspired shows.  This one looks at the fashions inspired by “folk art,” ranging from quilts to carved wood figures.  Aren’t these inspired pairings?

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The other exhibit Alice and I saw today also showed inspiration from established sources.  The Smith Art Museum has a “steampunk” exhibition of “humachines” called “Re-Imagining an Industrial City.”  You’re thinking steam…whaaat?  I know I was.  This was a really unexpected exhibit of artists’ works made in the last year that look at a kind of science fiction future.

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Here’s one sparked by H.G. Wells and his “Time Manchine,” which turned on and off and whirred and grrred.  Just fun.

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Jules Verne, Thomas Edison, and Nichola Tesla were just a few of the other sources.  Inventive and original plays on the time-honored culture.

So I leave you with a bit of Dr. Seuss, a famous and beloved resident of Springfield.  The park with these sculptures comprises the courtyard bounded by the Springfield Museums.  A day full of questions and wonder and a breath of spring!

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Mysteries of Nature

How does she do it?

Mother Nature has her own clock.  Take maple syrup.  The “working sugar season” lasts six weeks, but when it actually starts is up to her.

Today, in New Hampshire, sugaring has been delayed from an early February start, with the cold, cold winter.  Ideal sugaring needs a 25 degree night and 40 degree day.  We just have that today, and the sap is running.  Watch the buds on the tree as a clue for when to tap the tree, in preparation for making maple syrup.

I’ve long been confused by the grades and color of maple syrup.  Let’s see if I can clear it up for you.  All maple syrup is 67 per cent sugar, regardless of grade or color.  Grade A is lighter in color and taste, resulting from sap that started at higher sugar content and needed less boiling time.  Darker maple syrup, longer boiling times, more flavor.  The darkest are Grade B.  Grade C is really only used for cooking.  All have the same sugar content.

Got it?

Well, let me try to explain with the process.

2014-04-05 11.47.52You start with the proper tools.  When the sap starts to run, you put your spigoter spirals (yes, really) in your right pocket and hooks in your left pocket.  Then you carry you buckets.

Pick a tree that is at least ten inches in diameter.

You tap the tree in a new spot, drilling in 2 1/2 inches.  That’s how deep the spigoter spiral goes into the tree.  Put it in and hang your hook on it.  Put the bucket on the hook, cover the bucket.  Leave it alone for six weeks.
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One tap generates about ten gallons of sap per season.  This 130 year old tree has about 600 gallons of sap, that continually regenerates.  No maple trees were harmed in the making of this syrup.
 

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The sap is taken to a sugar shack, where the sugar content is measured.  The sap color ranges widely from light yellow to dark brown.  It may range from 1 to 4 (or more) per cent sugar.  Then it has to be boiled until it reaches 67 per cent sugar content.

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This room is welcomingly warm and steamy and smells just like you think maple syrup would.  I’m not a huge sweets fan, but that smell was more than fine!

After the sap reaches 67 per cent, you have maple syrup (not to be confused with syrup in the supermarket, which is made of corn syrup and a shot of Grade C maple syrup–like 2 per cent).

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Finally it is filtered through cheesecloth to get out any remaining impurities, like bark.

Fun fact:  Native Americans first started sugaring in the 1600s.  The origin myth is that little Indian girls plucked icicles covered with sap, took a lick, and saw it was good.  No one today would disagree.
 

 

 

Certainly not Mother Nature, who relishes playing the trickster and creating a good mystery, as evidenced in our next stop.

2014-04-05 15.30.43Magic Wings, a butterfly garden of 8000 sf and 4000 free flying butterflies and moths.  Wow!

Tropically warm and very serene, this place transcends time and logic.

There are the mysteries of their beauty–each species has a fingerprint, immediately recognizable.  How and why did this happen?  Where’s the Monarch butterfly travel journal that helps three successive generations complete one migration cycle Mexico to New England?

But even better is to quit trying to solve mysteries and just immerse in the beauty and sweetness of the day.  Enjoy the slide show.

Soaring like an eagle

On this first day of spring, which arrived at 12:47 p.m. EST apparently,. I ventured out with hardy birding afficionados, to sail the Connecticut River for some eagle watching.  That’s bald eagles, as goldens didn’t make an appearance today.

The Connecticut River is a prime winter holiday locale for bald eagles from Canada, New York, and all around New England.  Only four birds are residents here, owners of the most expensive real estate outside of New York City.  These four own two of only 25 Connecticut nests ,staking claim to their territory.

They reuse the same nest every year, so that it grows larger and deeper.  We saw a nest that had reached four feet square, weighing in at over 200 pounds.  That’s a lot of twigs.  And a lot of weight to support for a dead or dying tree, the eagle home site favorite.  But that’s nothing compared to the record-sized 8′ x  21′ nest that literally weighed a ton!

These are big birds, with females larger than males and having a wing span of about 8 and 1/2 feet (Connecticut eagles are about mid-sized, with bald eagles from Florida’s on the small end and from Alaska as the largest).  Move over New York co-ops!  These birds need space.

Eagles mate for life and don’t stray more than 5 miles from their nest.  Homebodies, just like me.  The female lays 3 eggs, one as insurance, as the smallest (and last born) tends to die.  One of the nests this year was a failure because of the continual and late snows.  The other has done well enough.

The eagle information and eagle-eye spotting was courtesy of Mike of Eco-Tours, part of the Connecticut Audubon Society.  My first time with this group was a winner.  Just to be out in the fresh air and sunshine after a long winter (today’s water temperature measured 39.4 degrees and air temps topped out at a balmy 40), but then also to see 18 eagles, six adults, with a group of very congenial bird-hounds, it’s all good.

Yes, we saw 18 eagles, and I didn’t snap a single pix of them.  I was just so happy to be able to spot them.  But soon, even I could pick them out, soaring overhead, eagle-eyeing their world from sandbars, poised at the tops of bare trees.

Now, here’s how you can identify the age of the eagle you’re seeing.  Go get out your binocs!

It takes the eagle four years to get its white head and tail.  At one year old, it will be tawny with speckles.  Except for its size, you might think it’s a turkey vulture.  We saw a lot of those, too.

A 2-3 year old bird will have a white belly, immediately identifiable when flying.  But only the 3 year old will also have a racoon’s mask.  Now, you’re ready to go.

We followed the path that steamers had taken 200 years ago.  But since none of us had a pig, we didn’t have to pay the extra nickel.

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The eagles aren’t the only sites along the river.  There’s Goodspeed Opera House, as pretty as a postcard from the water.

We saw the location of where, in 1814, the British burned 27 American ships in Essex Harbor, during the War of 1812.  And we saw the remains of burned out buildings from a party gone too wild last week.

 

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My pictures failed of the house with a tree growing through its deck.  And I think I have repair problems!

I do like this little red art studio built over the water (click on any image for a larger view and then you back button to return to this post).

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Then there’s the Academy at Mount St. Johns, where street-hardened boys are brought for another chance.  The motto: “better to make a boy than mend a man.”  Amen.

 

 

 

 

2014-03-20 11.42.31My favorite was Gillette Castle, the most Romantic spot, with its evocative ruins.  Gillette was an eccentric actor, who spent $1 million to build this castle in 1913.  He promised his wife he would never marry again, if she predeceased him.

And guess what?  He was good to his word.  The castle was party-central for this now-single man with more money than sense.  After his death, he didn’t want “the idiots to run it,” so he left the castle and his land to the state, and it’s now a Connecticut State Park.

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I’ve added it to the list of must-visits!

 

 

 

 

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Lots of wonderful rock formations.  Above is Elephant Rock, named for its seemingly wrinkled skin, just like a pachyderm’s.  Don’t know the name of this one.

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Then there was this moment, when the river turned glass still.  So quiet.  Pristine.  Near the cove with its 90 degree water.  And the world stopped.  Nary a bird in sight.  Just clouds and trees and sky and stillness.

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At times like this, the imagination can soar like an eagle.  So I’m glad to share an image or two with you, in case you’d like a little time to soar yourself.

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Pictures of the day:

Man.  Rock.  House

Man. Rock. House

 

Water.

Water.

 

Charlie’s World

Every walking tour adds something fresh to the now familiar streets of downtown New Haven and the old Yale campus.  Today, Charles Ives provides the layer added to the history cake.

Who knew that the experimental composer and dour organist was actually a party-hardy type at Yale?  Tracing his lineage to a New Haven founder William Ives, Charlie was a fourth generation Ives to attend the university, where he studied music.  His father, a Civil War band leader, pushed him away from his athletic prowess toward his other passion for music, after his son broke his nose playing football. Charlie was a star pitcher and probably would have relished playing at Yale’s indoor baseball field.  But he kept his word to his dad.

Jim Sinclair, right, and Kendall Crilly, Music Director, Center Church

Jim Sinclair, right, and Kendall Crilly, Music Director, Center Church

 

 

Perhaps you know Ives’s music well enough to remember the melancholy quality much of it has.  Jim Sinclair, our guide and Orchestra of New England conductor, attributed this wistful tonality to the death of his father, just weeks after Charlie arrived at Yale.

 

 

 

 

 

Wolf’s Head, Yale campus

Still, Charlie Ives was a popular, funny, frat boy, who joined a secret society, the Wolf’s Head, and generally made the most of Yale’s social life.  He played ragtime and musical stunts on the piano.  One I wish I could have heard was his 1897, two minute musical version of the Harvard-Yale football game, with Yale’s surprise victory.  He wrote songs for the frat shows at the Hyperion, with the om-pah-pah drinking song “Pass the Can Along” becoming a crowd favorite.

Knowing this biography helps me understand how pop culture music made its way into his symphonic works, along with the familiar patriotic anthems his father must have played that wind through pieces like “Fourth of July.”

Charles ives lived here for four years, in dumpy Old South Middle, now Connecticut Hall

Charles ives lived here for four years, in dumpy Old South Middle, now Connecticut Hall

 

As you might imagine, Charlie wasn’t the best academically.  Apparently, he was a “gentleman’s C,” meaning a D+ student.  Just not where he genius lay.

Sports and music were his gifts.  Ives was a professional organist by the age of 13, and when he arrived at Yale, he played for Center Church, founded along with New Haven in 1638.  He had more freedom to experiment there than he did as a music student at Yale.

We were treated to one of his student compositions on the Church’s organ, 2014-03-08 11.52.31two generations removed from the smaller and boxier one Ives played.  The three minute “C Minor Fugue” seemed like it could have been written 200 years earlier, following all the traditional compositional rules.  Nothing would indicate the kind of work he was to produce.

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Kendall Crilly plays C Minor Fugue

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tonight’s concert will feature Ives’s more playful college work, as well as fragments that survive, including one inspired by sunrise at East Rock.

1872 engraving of East Rock in New Haven

 

For all his liveliness, Ives could be shy, too.  He ventured with his fiance Harmony Twitchell to meet the parents in Hartford.  Her father was friends with Mark Twain, as they had been innocents abroad together.  So the family went to see the venerable author, sitting with him on his porch.

Twain recognized how uncomfortable Ives was and did nothing to ease the awkwardness.  Instead he stared.  Which only made things worse for Ives.  Eventually, Twain reportedly said, “The fore’s okay.  Let’s spin him around, and see the aft.”

Harmony and Charles Ives

 

The young couple transcended that memorable moment and grew old together.

 

 

 

 

Stories like this one turn the icon into a man.  Jim concluded the tour by commenting on the “humanity that permeates the music” of Ives.  With new insights on what can be difficult music, I hope to listen with new ears.

Another discovery:

Cornelius Vanderbilt built this dorm with its luxuriant gates for his sons' comfort while attending Yale.  Cole Porter lived here later.  This dorm is adjacent to the much more modest housing Ives inhabited.

Cornelius Vanderbilt built this dorm with its luxuriant gates for his sons’ comfort while attending Yale. Cole Porter lived here later. This dorm is adjacent to the much more modest housing Ives inhabited.

Monumental and ordinary

The everyday made monumental, the monumental made small.  That was my small day in big New York.

While the typically bloated Guggenheim show on Futurism may take you there, the Carrie Mae Weems exhibit is the real reason to go.  Known for her photographic commentaries on racism and the debilitating stereotypes of African Americans through American history, this show has several of her masterworks.

 

Her famous series “From Here I Saw What Happened and Cried” is a natural extension of Elizabeth Keckley’s experiences, dramatized yesterday, brought to an incisive and bitter cultural critiqilue.  I knew the series and seeing it as a whole is powerfully painful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Its message gets summarized in this one image “Looking in the Mirror,” the first image that introduced me to Weems.

LOOKING INTO THE MIRROR, THE BLACK WOMAN ASKED,; “MIRROR, MIRROR ON THE WALL, WHO’S THE FINEST OF THEM ALL?” THE MIRROR SAYS, “SNOW WHITE, YOU BLACK BITCH, AND DON’T YOU FORGET IT!!”

1987-1988

 
Carrie Mae Weems, Untitled (Woman playing solitaire) (from Kitchen Table Series), 1990

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had no idea the effect the “Kitchen Table” series from 1990 (above is the last image in the series) would have on me.  The Guggenheim has the entire narrative interspersed with all the images.  Each has the interrogation light and the table.  What’s on the table tells the story that mimics the written narrative’s words.

We go on a novelistic journey with the heroine, while Weems dissects a relationship–its rise, flowering, and decline–and the way community helps restore the heroine to hero status, after it’s demise.  Weems takes the ordinary, the everyday joys and pains, and monumentalizes them.  Don’t miss the chance to see this one.

When I left the exhibit, my chest literally hurt.  What better place for a healing balm than the beauty of The Frick?

In exchange for the jewel-like exhibit from The Mauritius, The Frick has responded in kind, sending its most famous works, including all three Vermeers, to Holland.  Hmmm. I thought Mr. Frick specified no loans, and The Frick was notorious for refusing to participate in the Vermeer exhibition that brought together all his other works.

Well, whatever.

If you know the collection, then you’ll enjoy seeing how the paintings are rearranged.  We now get a delicious room of Whistler’s, filled with works I had heard about but not seen.  This gallery is worth the trip alone.  Thank you, touring works!

But there’s more.

The focused show of Renaissance bronzes bring the monumental down to miniature, making them all the more impressive to my eye.  Not only can you walk all the way around the pieces, but you can get in close, study the details.

How does that rearing horse not fall over?  Hercules greatest feat may be defying gravity, in the model by Antonio Susini, who copies the original by his master Giambologna. Surely, Bernini studied these models or the fully-scaled sculptures.

Giambologna, Rape of Sabine Women, 1574-1582

Bernini, Hades and Persephone, 1621-2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

Yes, I’m geeking out on you again.  Makes me want to go do some homework on Mr. Bernini!

The curators comment about Giambologna’s “vibrant syncopation of contour and form.”  Yes!  Bernini might have learned a thing or two from him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
It was time for me to go downtown.

After grabbing my favorite lemon peel pizza at Keste, I finally got to see Michael Urie in “Buyer and Cellar.”  He’s leaving the show next month to tour it, so you may want to get over to Barrow Street to see him while you can.  His over-the-top energy suits this outrageously plotted show about the coming together of a little man and the monumental Barbra Steisand.  The play is full of laughs, some at the expense of stardom, most at the absurdities of people just trying to make it through life.

In the play, Barbra doesn’t know what to do with a Sunday afternoon. I don’t have that problem.  Even without all my stops today, Washington Square Park would have been enough on this glorious, faux-spring day.  There were the men playing chess, the protesters, the hippie guitar player, the black dudes tumbling, the pianist wrapped in his coat, scarf, and hat, the blue-haired girl walking a dog, by shuffling along on her 8″ black and white, zig zag, platform-heeled boots, the pyramid of bodies getting their picture taken.

We are all monumental in our tiny universes, intersecting at unexpected moments.  It’s all there to see, in the park, as well as in the museum and the theater.

Photos of the day:

Central Park

Central Park

Park Avenue Letting Off Steam

Park Avenue
Letting Off Steam

 

Happy New Year

I hope you’re out celebrating the Year of the Horse–Happy Chinese New Year!  I celebrated by going to festivities today that were celebrations of Chinese culture.

Perhaps I’ve been most intimidated by Chinese opera, which seemed strident and opaque and made me feel very much the foreigner.  What a pleasure to have Barbara Chan, a noted performer deconstruct these mysteries.  Here are some highlights.

Chinese OperaThere are about 300 regional opera styles, although Peking is the most popular form.  Barbara performs a Cantonese style.  She explained that with royal beginnings, opera, over time, became more accessible by being performed in tea houses.  Soon dedicated opera houses were being built out of bamboo, springing up all over the country.  Families like Barbara’s would center on opera performance, and her uncle performed for 70 years until his death at 96.  He looked half that age, perhaps from the makeup described below.

Performers were required not only to sing (Barbara sings male and female parts, requiring her to lower her vocal range an octave), but also deliver speeches of poetry, like rap she said, act, dance, and do martial arts and acrobatics.  Pretty incredible.

Barbara explained that the opera only has four character types, though one actor might play more than one role and type in an evening.  Sheng-m is a male, old or young; dan a female, often a married woman; jing – who have painted faces, often a fighter; and chou – wicked characters or perhaps a comic figure also with painted faces.

Key props, costumes, and gestures tell character and advance the story.  Pom poms on the heads of men or women indicate a fighter.  A bit counter-intuitive for us, since pom poms seem playful or for cheerleaders.  Long stalks of straw on a stick, serving as a broom, might be a prop for a fairy, whose responsibility is to dust the clouds! Stage props are kept very simple, generally just a table and chair, so that ornaments, costume, and makeup advance the story.

Remember that a white stripe down the nose indicates the character is wic2014-02-01 12.59.29ked.  Red means loyalty, black courage.  Gold or silver suggests the supernatural.  Men always wear high heels, even when fighting.  Women fight, too, but may also perform fan dances, which Barbara demonstrated.

Hair on women–essential.  Generally, very long hair wigs are part of the make-up process.  The hair is divided into 7 equal parts.  Long sideburns can go down to mid-calf.  The central hair, instead of falling over the face, is wiped up to 30 times with glue made of sea cucumbers or tree bark soaked in water.

The glue smooths the hair and allows it to be put on a form.  Extensive pictures of Barbara’s makeup and hair being dressed showed her wig being formed into circles crowning her face, then ornaments placed in each form, before a piazi–a very large head ornament which also holds the hair bun–is placed on her head.

All this after the extensive makeup session.  Most notable: creating the “phoenix eyes” which are considered pretty.  Traditionally, a ribbon is wrapped around and around the performer’s head, very very tight.  So tight, that some performers fainted from the stress.  Regardless, the method is painful, says Barbara.  Now, transparent tape is used to achieve the same effect.

What effect, you ask?  Pulling the eyes up into intense slants, smoothing out the skin above and below the eyes, before red, oil-based makeup is applied and smoothed.  This standard of beauty is finished off with “cherry lips.”  You got it, bright red lipstick.  And perhaps the secret to the youthful, 96-year-old uncle’s face.

Needless to say, the makeup and dressing requires assistance.  The one face works for any parts the performer may play, so that only a change of costume is required.  Still…

Barbara slipped on this beautiful, but according to her, inexpensive costume, to perform for us.

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Men's shoes and ornamented hat

Men’s shoes and ornamented hat

I mentioned that men wore heels, to achieve height.  Women wore flats, often with tassels, as worn by Barbara, especially when their partner was short.  Other women wore heels.  What’s intriguing and disturbing is the way these heels are formed.  It’s placed in the middle of the shoe, so that when the costume covers the performer’s foot, all that can be seen is the performer toddling along on these very tiny “feet.”  Like bound feet, which had been banned, but was still a standard of grace and beauty in women.

Gestures are symbolic.  When you see a character leaning over and whipping his or her head around so fast that the hair starts to twirl, this means the character is frustrated or sad.  The act is so difficult, that the audience usually bursts into applause.  Other gestures are like mime, like the act of drinking, covered by a modest hand to politely prevent others from seeing.

Barbara performed a sampling of the talking style and freestyle song of placing words within a certain beat, plus demonstrated a bit of the dance and acrobatic style.  You can get a taste in this video.

Musicians playing instruments generally sit on the sides of the stage for opera.  At the pipa

The master is on the left

The master is on the left

performance, of course, the master and her student were center stage.  Pipa is the English name for the sound that results from plucking this stringed instrument that resembles a classical lute.

Min Xioa-Fen played traditional songs with her student, but also demonstrated a jazz piece inspired by Theloneous Monk and Kansas City Swing, which was very influential in China in the 1920s.  Who knew?  You can hear a bit of their new year commemoration on this video.

Finally, I gave calligraphy a whirl.  Oh my.  I can see how people practice for a lifetime.  First, the way you hold the brush.  Lightly between your middle and ring finger.  Vertical.  With you elbow off the table.  Try that for awhile, and see how steady your strokes are.  Hmmm.

Just so you know, you read the Chinese characters from top right down, then the next column down.  But you write your characters from the top left.  One explanation: the tyranny of right handers, taking over from traditional left-handed writing.

Calligraphy means beautiful writing, and the Chinese have it, whether from the earliest, “tall” form — geometrically carved from stone to the cursive “grass” style, so named because it’s “like grass blowing in the wind.”  Poetry is everywhere, except perhaps in my calligraphic attempts!

 

 

“Fu” means fortune.  May your new year be full of blessings and happiness!

Over the hills and through the woods

On this beautiful, crisp day, I took a ride in the country to the Katonah Art Museum in upstate 2013-12-27 12.15.22New York.  I don’t know exactly where I left one state for another, but the winding roads, the rise and fall of the hills, and the roadside stone fences topped with snow were as pretty as a holiday card.

 

 

 

I passed several frozen-over lakes covered with a white blanket of snow.  A huge hawk, that looked like a peregrine, flew right above me, before landing on an electric wire along the road.

 

 

Just a bit over an hour after leaving New Haven, I made it to see the exhibit “Eye to I…3,000 Years of Portraits” at the museum.  What I didn’t realize until looking at the object labels is that most of the 65 works came from private collections.  After spending over a year tracking down one painting from a private collection for my thesis, I wondered how in the world this tiny museum and its staff could ever mount such a show.

Turns out, Katonah is a very wealthy town, unlike much of upstate New York, and locals put up objects from their collection with such diverse art historical greatest hits as works by Andy Warhol, Édouard Vuillard, Chuck Close, Robert Henri, John Singleton Copley, Duane Hanson, Cindy Sherman, Félix González-Torres, Diane Arbus, and Gordon Parks.  An ancient Egyptian bust of Amenhotep III is placed next to a Rodin bronze head of the artist’s lover and housekeeper Rose Beuret, a Nigerian mask with the computer-generated imagery “Mirror No. 12” by Daniel Rozin.

Rozin’s work engages the viewer in a particularly intriguing and interactive way.  A mirror incorporates the 2013-12-27 11.22.34viewer into a computerized view of the gallery.  The image is then shattered into shards, the color flattened, and the scene slowly sways from side to side.  The curator describes the result as “digital but incredibly painterly.”  Can you make me out in this image?

 

 

 

Here are a few other works I really liked.

 

My girl Florine Stettheimer is represented.  How rare to see one of her works, and this is a famous portrait she made of her friend, and supposedly her lover, Marcel Duchamp in 1923.  Of her limited catalogue, I can check off another I’ve seen in person!

 

 

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Diane Arbus’s photograph of “Soothsayer Madame Sandra California, 1963.”  Did the woman ever make a photograph that wasn’t a classic?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Same with Gordon Parks.  Here is “Little Richard, Harlem, New York, 1967.”  I really like those 1960s photographers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Anne-Karin Furunes, “Portraits of Archive Pictures” uses optics to confound, then allow our ability to see.  She appropriates archival images and then tampers with the image.  At varying angles, it’s unreadable, emerges like a ghost, then clarifies as Anne Frank.

Julian Opie plays with how we see, too.  “This is Monique” from 2004 shows this seemingly static portrait of Monique.  If you stay with her…

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she starts to smile (it gets bigger than this).

 

 

 

 

 

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frowns (it gets deeper than this),

 

 

 

 

 

 

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and seems to react in surprise at something you say to her.

Talk about unexpectedly interactive!

 

 

 

 

These works won’t be readily seen again, as they mostly live in private collections.  So if you get a chance to run up to Katonah, the show is on until2013-12-27 12.04.19 February.  The pretty drive alone is worth it.  The portraits create a dialogue to take you home.

Unless you want to linger and visit John Jay’s homestead.  It was closed today, but I enjoyed walking the grounds a bit, seeing some of the farm.

 

 

 

I headed home via Litchfield, CT, where I met with woodworker Tom Kyasky.  He’s going to build a bed for me in the style of Duncan Phyfe.  Pretty classy, eh?  Very soon, I will get to have a little bit of American decorative arts history to lull me to sleep, after a satisfying day trip over the hills and through the woods.

 

 

 

A close shave

Navigating the streets of New York can be a challenge this time of year.  The bodies blob together and form an unmoving mass on Fifth Avenue and all through midtown.  The blob is unmovable and refuses to part.

2013-12-19 16.27.49What’s a fast walker to do?  Find the mid-block  cut-throughs, of course.  Today, I happened onto a kind of alleyway filled with sculpture, like this Leda and the Swan by Botero.  Love it.

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And this perfectly silent walkway with fountains and lights–more magical than any Bergdorf window.

A close shave averted…for the moment.  I decided on an early Thai dinner at a restaurant so tiny that I can napkin-daub the lips of the person at the next table without straightening my arm.  I arrived at the unfashionable hour of 4:45 and was seated right away at the last remaining seat.  At the bar, I discovered that one has elbow room, but is knocked continually along the backside.  Still, the food is good, cheap, and fast, which works because I had places to go and people to see.

Laurie Metcalf in jeans, Jeff Goldblum in his costume--a suit

Laurie Metcalf in jeans, Jeff Goldblum in his costume–a suit

I wanted to hear what Jeff Goldblum would say about his character in Domesticated, during a pre-show conversation at Lincoln Center.  Not only did that cast have time before their 8 pm curtain, but so did I.

Goldblum plays a womanizing gynecologist (ewww) turned philandering politician (how obvious).  What makes the show different from the headlines is what happens next.  I saw the play a couple of months ago, but vividly remember his close shave with the dark side consequences of his affair.  But another tight corner was avoided by both Goldblum and his co-star Laurie Metcalf by discussing the play’s process, not their characters.

 
My favorite close shave of the day belonged to the Met, and its new exhibit on dressing tables through the ages.   I’m newly in love with the Met.  Every time I go now, it is such a joy.  This small exhibit gives you plenty of time and space to savoy reach gem.

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The ancient Egyptians loved their makeup, and formulated the concept of a box of vial and jars of stuff on a table just for that purpose.

 

 

 

 

 

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Look at the intricate beauty of the inlaid patterns and scenes on This dressing table for Madame du Pompadour.  This table was designed with all her passions included–gardening, architecture, nature–the motifs are all there to please her.

Several more French, Italian, and even American examples each sing their glories.

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Elegance was not reserved for women.  The shaving table was essential for the eighteenth-century gentleman.  And check out the wig cabinet, all the rage after Louis XIII started the 2013-12-19 11.17.15courtier-gentlemanly fashion of wearing a wig in 1624.

Give me a box like this, and I might don one, too, when visiting court!

 

 

 

 

 
2013-12-19 11.12.47The lady needs a place to keep her combs, of course.  The dense-teeth side was inserted into the hairdo, while the fine side was used for combing out lice.  Ah, the costs of beauty.

Still you might forget all your cares if you use this 1736 Chinese jewelry box.

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Hogarth spoofs the way the privileged turned the private function of the toilette into the public, blurring the intimacy of a flirtation with the boudoir as public reception space.

 

 

2013-12-19 11.11.03Fun fact: in the Renaissance, toilette shifted from being an object (a box with jars and pots of creams) to an activity.  Think about it.  As more time was spent with the action of preparing one’s face and hair and…, the more specialized the tools became, necessitating a table to hold all those goodies.  A medicine cabinet today, though, is a pretty dispiriting  swap for this set.

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Instead you might want this spectacular 20th-century-modern jewelry case for holding your JAR jewels.  No, not a jar of jewels, but Joel A. Rosenthal’s contemporary, bejeweled creations.

 

 

 

 

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For a mere $4000, you can even buy a small piece of his at the Met’s gift shop.  Then you have to get your antique dressing table to house it and your jewelry case.  You’ll be all set for the holidays, unless you need a close shave.  Then you’ll need this shaving table…

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Chemistry

2013-12-05 16.50.01New York’s a pizza town.  So is New Haven, and the Elm City has bragging rights for the first pizza oven in the country at Pepe’s.  I’ve toured several of the New Haven spots, so it was time for the comparison.  My foodie friend Katherine and I signed up for Scott’s Pizza Tours, “the cheesiest guided tour,” and tonight Scott was our very own guide–for just the two of us.

We started at Keste, Katherine’s favorite pizza place.  It’s Napolitano, and since Naples was the founding location for pizza, Keste was a good starting point for our taste tour.

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Pizza started in bakeries in Naples, when bakers wanted to cool the oven down.  They would throw dough into the too-hot oven with whatever stuff they had around, like anchovies.  It was trash food.  And look at it today–probably the favorite food in America.

Chemistry is important.  The Napolitano style uses low-protein flour, so that the dough is very soft.  After fermenting for two days, the pie men at Keste leave the dough outside for two to three hours to get chilled.  I don’t know what they do in the summer.

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Then to work the dough, It’s merely pressed down gently.  Tossing the dough?  Never!  This is a marketing gimmick, originally used by Americans to attract the neophytes to their pies.  Americans have high-protein, high gluten flour that can stand up to a toss.  It would tatter the low-protein dough.  Now you know.

2013-12-05 17.07.53The wood-fired oven heats up to 920 degrees for the pizzas, and the wood fire is only on one side.  The domed oven, with no vent hole, then creates a convection, with the heat circling up around the dome.  Standing in front of it was pretty intense.  Our margharita pie took one minute and 25 seconds to cook.  Hot mama!

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Pizza is only good for a couple of minutes after leaving the oven.  Even five minutes after, it’s moister (read soggy).  Lesson learned:  eat fast!

Scott spied a pizza being made for another party, and we decided to get it, too.  Smoked mozzarella, basil and lemon slices.  For Katherine and me, the world stopped turning with this pizza.  And I was done for the night.  We went to two more places.

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But after a bite at one, coal-fired and basically disappointing, and nothing at the last (a traditional New York slice), I knew that the Sorentina pie, referencing Sorrento lemons, was the nirvana of this night.

The conversation was better than the later pizza, as I listened to the two foodies go at it.  What did I get from that?  Well, I have to try the pickle soup at P.J. Bernstein.  And food is all about good chemistry.

So speaking of chemistry, I think Katherine and Scott were hitting it off.  After all, they discovered that they each carry their own pepper grinder.  So I made my exit, heading for the train and looking forward to my next New Haven pizza.  Who knows?  Maybe I’ll find one with a lemon slice!

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Balancing suffering with humor

After a longing to read it for many years, I finally dug into Stella Gibbons’ hilarious novel Cold Comfort Farm.  Yes, I was that person on the subway laughing to herself…

But really, the Starkadder horses are named Travail and Arsenic.  And witty Flora Poste changes all the Starkadder lives with good cheer and a dose of pragmatism.

Turned out to be the theme of the day.

Chris Burden tortured his body in the name of art, notorious in the 1970s for setting himself up to be shot in the arm and slithering naked over broken glass.  Well, he lived, and like most of us, he grew up, tempering the way he expressed struggle in his newer sculptural pieces.

I hadn’t really wanted to see the show at the New Museum, but I am in a Body Art class.  What I couldn’t anticipate is the humor in his work.  He erects a beautiful bridge with an erector set 2013-11-30 12.03.49(memories of my childhood that makes me want to see the new, erector set exhibit at the Eli Whitney museum in New Haven even more).  Then he points a cannon at it.  Creation and destruction.  And humor.

Even his 1981 Tale of Two Cities, destroying each other through war, has a wink in it–it’s a whole world made of miniatures and toys.  The binoculars posted nearby will help you see it better.  Burden and his team took three weeks to install it in the gallery.  Talk about suffering!

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My favorite is his 2013 work Porsche with Meteorite.  If you saw that title on a novel, wouldn’t 2013-11-30 11.55.57you want to read it?  As you can see, it’s enormous and playful, as if alluding to some vast teeter-totter or the Scale of Justice belonging to the gods.  It’s not as absurd as Big Wheel from 1979, which serves no functional purpose, despite appearances.  But that, you argue, is art!  Yes!

 

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Here’s a youtube video of how the Big Wheel gets going:

I appreciate anything that makes me laugh, so I forced myself to see Becoming Dr. Ruth.  I’m basically neutral about her, but her life is a celebration of choosing joy over suffering.  And the one-woman show about her life demonstrates just that.

Perhaps the ‘wisdom’ that comes with age is knowing that suffering is part of life.  The phrase Tikkun olam means ‘repair the world’.  That call is one of the ways I identify with being Jewish.  The way to repair the world for Dr. Ruth is through sex.  For me, it’s laughter.  Let’s do it!